We got out of York relatively easily and stopped for cash and a lunch to "take away" (as they call it) from the local "Tesco," quite a neat little store with fresh bakery goods and produce (and Hobnobs-- that's for Adrienne M. Nom! So many "sweeties" to try here!)
First stop was Scarborough. What a wonderful surprise to basically go without any plan or expectations (or even reading a guidebook about it) and loving it! We just followed the signs toward the castle and were blown away by the view of the bay, the tour of the castle, and St. Mary's Church.
How cool to find Anne Bronte's burial site and read about her life there! We talked to a wonderful volunteer host who was a delight. Poor Anne's death certificate said she died a spinster of the consumption!
Before we saw the church we actually enjoyed the castle. We became Overseas Visitors of the English Heritage, which allows you to pay one fee for a certain number of days allowing you entrance to any of their Heritage sites-- most abbeys, churches and various historical sites. The free audio tour of Scarborough Castle was interesting and climbing high gave us "lufflay" views.
Next stop, Robin Hood's Bay, suggested by RHS band director Scott Brown. What a neat little village and a great spot for our lunchtime picnic! Amazing steep streets and tiny shops, and great to enjoy more of the coast. It was misting a bit but we did just fine.
With fully tummies we drove on through amazing villages and beautiful countryside to Whitby Abbey, an absolutely stunning site of ruins. We could have spent a lot more time at Whitby-- so glad we took the side roads to learn about it and enjoy it.
We made the long trek then to Durham, with a few missed round-about turns and no coffee in sight as we made our way through North York Moors National Park. On the British roads are "Services" stops with gas and a restaurant of some kind (like the OK 50's US diner we found!) so we were happy to finally find one with a food co-op even if it just had a coffee machine (hit the spot!). We made it to Durham right about 5pm and made our way up tiny, windy roads to Castle View Guest House. It's beautiful-- another Abbott recommendation! (Maybe Lemcios have stayed here before as well?)... Wait, it's 5pm? Evensong is in 15 minutes! We dropped our stuff in our room, asked the host if he thought we could make it and how to get there-- and as the last bell rang, we scooted in with the boy's choir and clergy right behind us. We literally ran up steps and a long, riverside uphill path to get in-- huffing and puffing like the old folks we are! But we're so glad we made it (incredible boy sopranos) and even though I almost couldn't take the incense (a la Mark Abbott-- cough!), it was a wonderful service. I especially appreciated how the scriptures were read-- so thoughtful, not rushed with poignant pauses-- no one rushing to fill the quiet space. It was interesting to see a little organ consul directly in front of the choir master (played by a woman)... though she played the bigger organ for hymns and pre-and postlude. We walked around a bit afterwards, freely taking pictures until we were chided... oops. Totally blew past that "no photos" sign as we slipped in at the last minute! But now we have pix to show you! Another beautiful and inspiring cathedral! And a 5 minute run (or 10 min walk!) from our lovely B&B! We're only here one night so maybe tomorrow we'll do the Undercroft? (Missed it at York.)
After the service we enjoyed the stunning courtyard and walked across to the library where the Lindisfarne Gospels are on display. It was 6 something at this point and we had been told you have to go in and request a time to come back and see them... could we be so blessed (not lucky!) to get right in? Yes indeed! Today is working out so much better than yesterday! What a treat to learn about St. Cuthbert, St. Bede and the story of these precious hand-written and ornately decorated copies of the Gospels! The exhibition is only here in Durham until Sept 30 (and just recently opened) and is carefully guarded and manned with volunteers controlling amount of visitors in rooms, etc. Upstairs from the transcripts is a display showing you the process used to print the gospels. It's very kid-friendly, which means we had a wee bit of fun.
WOW-- that's quite a full day. I don't think Rick Steves would approve of how much we crammed into today... but then again, we rocked it! Happy to share our travel joys with you all. CHEERZZZZZZZZZ.
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